Batch #79 – Anna’s Brown Ale


Tasty McDole named his famous American brown ale after his wife Janet who helped him with continuous evaluation and feedback. Since I’m gonna brew a tweaked version of it I though it would be proper to rename it but with a name that still pays homage to Tasty. Also, I plan on using my own wife to help me evaluate the recipe. Hence, Anna’s Brown Ale.
The tweeking consists of three things. First, I use dry English yeast intstead of California ale. Second,  I dry hop with Amarillo and Chinook instead of Centennial. Third, instead of 4 % chocolate malt I use 2,5 % plus 0,5 % black malt. This idea comes from BN‘s first episode of Can you brew it where they tried to clone Moose Drool back in 2009.


Style: American Brown Ale, BJCP category 19C.
5 gallons/19 liters. OG 1,062/ (est.) FG 1,015, 67 IBU, 46 EBC, 6,2 % ABV (est.).

5,3 kg (69 %) Extra Pale Maris Otter
0,77 kg (10 %) CaraPils
0,76 kg (10 %) Crystal 100
0,61 kg (8 %) Wheat malt
0,19 kg (2,5 %) Choclate malt
0,04 kg (0,5 %) Black malt

Mash with 18,5 liters of brewing liqueur (I’m using London water) at 67 degrees C for 60 minutes.

Sparge with 19 liters of water at 73 degrees to collect 29 liters of wort with a pre-boil gravity of 1,055.

Boil for 90 minutes and add:
55 g of Northern Brewer (8,8 %) @ 60 min
27 g of Northern Brewer (8,8 %) @ 20 min
Protofloc @ 15 min
27 g of Northern Brewer (8,8 %) @ 5 min

Chill the wort to 20 degrees and pitch with dry English yeast. I’ll be using the very reliable Nottingham dry yeast today so I have not done a starter. Ferment  at  19 degrees C.

After 9 days, dry hop with
100 g Amarillo
100 g Chinook
for 5 days.

Cold crash, add gelatin, keg and carbonate to 2,5 volumes.

Here we go.


Batch 79, 80, 81 and so forth… (updated)

What is the eternal question?

It is NOT the question of “life, the universe and everything” as Douglas Adams argued, and to which the answer was, according to the dedicated computer Deep Thought (below), 42.


The eternal question is:

What to brew next?

I have a bunch of candidate beers and I’ve been trying to structure them into something of a plan for this fall.

First, I want to re-brew Tasty McDole’s Janet’s Brown Ale. This time I’m gonna tweak it a bit by substituting the Crystal 40 for an English Caramel 100, and replacing the Cascade with a Centennial/Amarillo combo. Obviously I need to rename the beer, from Tasty’s (late) wife to my own.

Second, I want to brew a Weizenbock with an American twist. I really like Transatlantic crossovers in the craft beer world, and I’m really curious about Weizenbock. I participated in brewing one last spring but am still waiting to taste it (it will be served at Monks‘ 25 anniversary this fall)

Third, I want to brew a session beer (< 3.5%) for a fall festivity at our kids’ school. Every year the school holds an outdoor money raiser at the end of September with games and stuff, and there’s always a barbeque stand that sells burgers. I thought that a well crafted home brew could be sold at a prize that could raise some money. A pale ale or an Amber ale to not scare away the customers, perhaps?

And forth, I want a nice porter for the fall and winter. The last one I brewed came out rather lame, and I have not really figured out why. This time I’m thinking about brewing something along the lines of Anchor Brewing’s classic porter (first brewed in 1972). I ordered a six pack of that last year and it was friggin’ delicious. There is a clone recipe in the November 2014 issue of Brew Your Own magazine and I’m thinking about bumping it up a bit to get more into the Baltic porter category.

And then, of course, I need to keep the harvest-ale-brewing-tradition alive by repeating the semi-successful event that my family and our neighbors executed last year when we tried to brew a pale ale with wet cones from their unidentified giant hop plant. It turned out that the hops didn’t do anything for the beer, but the event was nice and this year we might just use commercial hops.

Then there’s all that other stuff that needs to get done, like a winter warmer, an American barley wine, a good stout, maybe another Triple Red. And when all that is done, perhaps it is time to start planning for spring and summer. That’s how home brewers survive the Dark Season on the Northern hemisphere.

First up is Anna’s Brown Ale though. On Sunday. Time to finalize the recipe.


Batch 78 -Ridiculously Hoppy IPA

Having bottled my Malabar Farmhouse Ale – a celebration of the 3oth anniversary of the 1986 graduating class of Malabar High School (R.I.P.) in Mansfield, Ohio – and the Summer Mosaic from its keg, the fermentation chamber is suddenly empty. For a while I’ve been deliberating on what to put in there. I was thinking about re-brewing batch 44 which was an attempt at Mike Tasty McDole’s Janet’s Brown Ale. But on the other hand it’s about time to take another shot at a great IPA. For a while now I’ve been meaning to either develop or merge batch 52 which was a rather successful West Coast IPA and batch 60B, a more mainstream American IPA  which was one of three beers of a partigyle attempt.

I decided on the IPA while the strike water was heating up.

Once I had a highly qualified beer judge comment on an American IPA that I made. His main comment was that it was not bitter enough for the style, even though it had a calculated IBU of 85. So this time I’m gonna make a hop bomb. 500 grams of hops in a 5 gallon batch. Ridiculous.



Style: American IPA. 5 gallons/19 liters. OG 1,065/ FG 1,012 (est.), 75 IBU, 14 EBC, ~7,0 % ABV.

5,95 kg (80 %) Extra Pale Maris Otter
0,37 kg (5 %) CaraPils
0,37 kg (5 %) Munich
0,37 kg (5 %) Caravienne 20L
0,37 kg (5 %) Crystal 100

Mash with 18 liters (one half of the brewing water, like Tasty McDole does it) of the brewing water of your choice at 65 degrees C for 60-90 minutes or full conversion. Sparge with 73 degree water (the other half)  to collect 28 liters of wort with a pre-boil gravity of 1,056.

Boil for 90 minutes. Add

Protofloc and yeast nutrient at @ 15
50 g Centennial (10,30 %) @ 5
50 g Amarillo (10,50 %) @ 5
50 g Centennial (10,30 %) @ 1
50 g Amarillo (10,50 %) @ 1

Chill to 80 degrees and add:
50 g Centennial (10,30 %) @ 1
50 g Amarillo (10,50 %) @ 1

for a 20 minute whirl pool/hop stand.

Chill the wort to 20 degrees and pitch with WLP002 or similar. Ferment at 20 degrees for 9 days and add

100 g Centennial pellets
100 g Amarillo pellets

for 5 days of dry hopping.

Package and to 2,5 volumes of CO2.


I began Friday (two days ago) by making an all-grain yeast starter (a first since I was out of DME) off of a vial of WLP002 English Ale Yeast. I crushed 200 g of pale malt, mashed it in a bag in 1,4 liters of water (in the oven) and sparged it 1 liter. Then I mixed the two runnings for a 1,2 liter wort of around 1,040-1,050 which I chilled and pourded into my e-flask and then pitched the yeast. 24 hours on the stir plate and 24 hours in the fridge to settle.


On brewday I started with a major mistake. The mash pH was a little below the sweet spot so I tried to raise it with calcium carbonate but added calcium cloride instead. Which lowered the pH instead of raising it. There was no way I was gonna get back to a good level without adding a bunch of minerals which I feared would affect the taste too much so I started all over again. Stupid, stupid, stupid.

Then I had trouble with my Monster Mill 3 and had to consult various guides on the Web and lost al of time. I was about to go back to my trusted Corona mill for a while.


After that everything went fairly well. The mash efficiency was not as good as usual, probably due to my problems with the mill. I ended up with 25,8 liters at SG55, but decided to leave it at that.


Ridiculous amounts of hops. Usually I weigh my hop additions in plastic glasses like the one in the front, but this time I had to use pint sized jugs. BTW, my technique of seperating hops from wort after the boil is with a bazooka screen in the boil kettle. Therefore, I use leaf pellets during the boil and pellets for dry hopping.

My experience from the last couple of batches is that I get about 3 liters of extra wort, so this time I decided to ferment in a plastic bucket instead of the Better Bottle. However, the lower exchange during mashing and the ridiculous amounts of hops only yielded 17 liters of beer. Well.IMG_6125





Batch #77 – 30th Anniversary Malabar Farmhouse Ale

A long time ago I spent a year as an exchange student in a small Mid-Western town called Mansfield in the state of Ohio. You’ve probably never heard of it, but you’ve most probably seen in, at least if you’ve watched the highly acclaimed movie Shawshank Redemption. It was far from what I had expected from a year as a high school senior in the United States – preferably in Los Angeles or New York City – because that was about as far as my understanding of America went at that time, as a European teenager in the 80’s. But in hindsight I am extremely grateful that I did not end up in one of the metropolises (although I know that would also have been rewarding) but in a genuine American small town. It was arguably the most formative year of my life.

At the end of this month many of my good friends from that time gather to celebrate our 30th anniversary  as the 1986 graduating class of Malabar High School, paradoxically enough at Mansfield’s only (as far as I know) craft brewery and tap room The Phoenix Brewing Co. on 131 North Diamond Street in downtown Mansfield.

Unfortunately, I will not be able to attend, but through various web services I hope to attend remotely. Also, I will dedicate my next batch to Malabar’s Class of ’86. True story: today as I was drafting up a saison recipe to brew as soon as my fermentation chamber becomes available, I got the invitation to the reunion. So my first though was to rebrew the farmhouse ale I actually dedicated to American alma mater almost exactly one year ago, the Malabar Farmhouse Ale. That beer was a bit too much so I’ll take it down a few notches to more subtle level.

Tentative recipe:

Style: Saison/Farmhouse Ale. 5 gallons/19 liters. OG 1,050/ FG 1,005 (est.), 26 IBU, 7 EBC, 5,9 % ABV.

3,63 kg (70 %) Extra Pale Maris Otter
0,52 kg (10 %) CaraPils
0,26 kg (5 %) Wheat
0,26 kg (5 %) Munich
0,52 kg (5 %) sugar

Mash with 12,5 liters of the brewing water of your choice at 65 degrees C for 60-90 minutes or full conversion. Sparge with 73 degree water (approx. 21 liters)  to collect 28 liters of wort with a pre-boil gravity of 1,035 (Note that it would have been 1,043 with the sugar that will be added later).

Boil for 90 minutes, chill to 80 degrees and add:
100 g Cascade leafs (7,8 %)  for a 20 minute whirlpool/hop stand.

Chill the wort to 20 degrees and pitch with WLP566 or similar. Let the temperature rise to 25 degrees during fermentation.

After about a week, dry hop with
100 g Cascade pellets (6,6 %)
for 5 days

Bottle-condition and carbonate to 3 volumes of CO2.

July 16, 2017 Preparing the yeast

Yesterday I received two vials of WLP566 Belgian Saison II yeast from Humlegården. They were packaged on the last of May so the viability was only 66%, which implies 3 packages or a 0,75 liter starter. Don’t know why ordered two vials (probably slipped with the mouse pointer) but since I don’t need to keep one of them I decided to make a starter using both. According to Lord Zainasceff, more yeast is better than less.

This time I used wort from a previous batch that I have saved in the freezer for this purpose. It was an Amber ale but that won’t matter since I’ll let the starter settle and only pitch the yeast and just enough wort to stir it up from the bottom of the e-flask. The wort’s gravity was 1,060 which is a little too high for a starter as I understand it (perhaps not for two vials though) so I added water to bring it down to 1,040. I boiled the wort for 10 minutes, chilled it to room temperature, poured the yeast in the e-flask and poured the wort over it. It will now sit on the stirplate for 18-24 hours before I let it settle in the fridge before brewing.


Here are some photos from the brewday. I really like brewing outdoors, especially on days like this one. I have a better efficiency than I calculate with in BeerSmith so I typically end up with a few liters more wort than I need. Sometimes I dump it pre-boil, or save it in the freezer for future yeast starters, and sometimes I boil it and do an experimentation batch with it (see below). The brew day went fine and according to plan and I hit all the numbers.

At the beginning I didn’t really have a plan for the extra 3 liters. I was thinking about adding blackberries to the secondary but my own blackberries are not ready yet and I don’t know if the ones I froze last year are any good. I also thought about red currants which I also have plenty of, but they are rather tart and I don’t think that works with a saison. But perhaps black currant does? They’re much sweeter and could potentially give a different but nice color to the beer.

There are many and contradictory pieces of information about adding fruit and berries to beer. I decided to add quite alot of berries, more than most recipes suggest, but I didn’t want to raise the final gravity to a point where I would need more yeast to dry it out. So I used an article in Brew Your Own Magazine to calculate the gravity change and ended up picking, cleaning, sanitizing, freezing and splitting 215 grams of black currant and added it to the 3 liters of beer, which, according to my calculations, will raise the final gravity from the current 5 to 8, which is still dry enough. Perhaps the dormant yeast will come around and ferment the sugars in the added berries during the rest of fermentation. Thus, I’m hoping for a dark blue beer with a hint of black currant aroma and taste, and not too sweet.

At the same time I added 100 grams of Cascade pellets to the big vessel for dry hopping. I know you’re not supposed to dry hop a saison with an American hop variety but hey, this is an American farmhouse ale and I’m a homebrewer and I can do whatever I want. So says Lord Zainasheff.

At least the berries gives some color to the beer, as can be seen above. This is less than 24 hours after adding the berries. I have lowered the temperature from 25 to 22 for this phase of the fermentation process.


Tonight, my old friends meet at  The Phoenix Brewing Co. in Mansfield, Ohio. Hope you have some great beers and post some great photos under #86falcons.


August 6, time to package.

I started off by racking the beer to a bottling bucket, but half way through I thought “Why not keg half the batch?” So I halted and raked the second half to a half size Cornelius keg. This way I can compare a bottle conditioned saison with a force carbonated one, realizing that the former is more proper to style. But hey, we’re home brewers and we do whatever we want. I primed with 7,7 grams of sugar per liter to achieve 2,9 volumes of CO2.

Next I engaged my experimental Cassis Saison. Obviously, the black currant had given color to the beer. However, while I was expecting something blue it turned out pinkish red. Extrordinary.

It had dried out nicely and the taste was a bit tart with clear notes of black current. It might need some time in the bottle to smooth the tartness. We’ll see.

Since racking to a bottling bucket entails some loss of volume I bottled straight from the fermenter and added 1/3 of 7,7 grams of sugar straight into the bottles before filling them with a siphon and bottling wand.

Batch #76 Summer Mosaic

While in Greece a while back, I had to endure the local yellow fizzy stuff:


Actually, it wasn’t that bad. Not like a Heineken or anything. It actually had some malt body and a little residual sweetness which made it very refreshing. And no DMS.

So I’m thinking, what if I should try to emulate that with some high quality pale malt, lots of summery hops and a good, clean ale yeast? Something like Lagunitas’ New Dog Pale Ale but less bitter.

I wanted to do something yellow and tropical with Equinox, but since they didn’t have both leaf and pellets at my local store I settled for Mosaic. And since my current house base malt is Extra Pale Maris Otter, Extra Pale Maris Otter it is. And WLP001.

The question is how big a beer to brew. My gut tells me a 5.0 – 5.5 % ABV for easy summer drinking, but when I browse the we web I see people brewing single hop beers with Mosaic in the IPA and double IPA range. And I’m guessing that my base malt, some CaraPils, Mosaic hops and WLP001 would make a fine West Coast single or double IPA.

Decision, decision.

For now I’m sticking to my original idea which implies a recipe that goes a little something like this:

Style: Perhaps a hybrid of btw American Blonde and American Pale Ale. 5 gallons/19 liters. OG 1,052 (est.) FG 1,010, 36 IBU, 7 EBC, 5,5 % ABV.

5,22 kg (90 %) Extra Pale Maris Otter
58 g (10 %) CaraPils

Mash with 15,5 liters of brewing liqueur (Ca 120, Mg 4, Na 10, SO4 260, Cl 12, HCO3 53) at 67 degrees C for 60 minutes.

Sparge with 19 liters of water at 73 degrees to collect approx. 28 liters of wort with a pre-boil gravity of 1,044.

Boil for 90 minutes and add:
50 g Mosaic leafs (11,8 %) @ 5 min
50 g Mosaic leafs (11,8 %) WP for 30 minutes (chill the beer to 80 degrees C before adding the WP hops)

Chill the wort to 17 degrees and pitch with WLP001 or US-05. Ferment  at  18 degrees C.

After about a week, dry hop with
100 g Mosaic pellets (11,8 %)
for 5 days

Package and carbonate.

28 June, 2016 Brewday

First runnings – pale indeed.


Brewed outdoors again. It’s kinda windy where I live so I have to shield the burner.



The Chugger pump and plate chiller works like a charm. I’m hitting the pitching temperature right on.



I had a little mishap with the tap on the Better Bottle. There was a leakage so I had to transfer the wort, with the pitched yeast, to another vessel. Probably lost some yeast that way because the fermentation went really slow for the first week.


After ramping up the temp it picked up though and the beer finished at FG 1,004 after two weeks!

After three days of dry hopping I cold crashed the beer and added 1 tsp of gelatin in 1 dl of water. At this point the beer already tastes great!


After cold crashing the beer I kegged it and hooked up the CO2 for force carbonation.


A week ago I bottled some and brought it to a family gathering (on the wife’s side) as a present to the host and hostess. The judgments were overwhelmingly positive, like “you can sell this stuff at craft beer price”. And I have too agree. This is a delicious beer, especially for creft beer newbies I believe. It has a nice fruity sweeteness although it is dry and moderate bitterness. And it looks good. However, I think that the Mosaic is perhaps a bit too fruity and needs a complement, perhaps another hop variety and/or some more bitterness. I will try that the next time I brew this simple but great summer beer.


Batch #75 – Midsummer Ale

After having spent a week in Crete recently I was craving beer with some color, flavor and aroma. So I started drafting a Real Red IPA. However, shit happens, such as work, home improvement requirements and stuff, so I never got around to brewing it. The starter has been sitting in the fridge for two weeks by now.

But today I got reminded by another brewer that it is time to brew beer for Midsummer (for all you non-Swedes, Midsummer Eve is a pagan festivity around summer solstice when the introvert, cold Swedes turn extrovert and warm and generally nuts for 24 hours).

2012-06-22 (6).jpg

The beer is to be kegged and offered to family and friends when we party on the docks all night long.

2012-06-22 (35)

So, it’s recipe writing time. I love it!

What to brew, then?

I will depart from my new base malt Extra Pale Maris Otter, and I want some fruity and citrusy hops like Amarillo, Centennial and Chinook. I’m thinking about revamping my Anglo-Belgo Pale Ale which turned out really drinkable and fresh by using a Cal Ale yeast and maybe give it some color to move into Amber territory. I’m thinking Brew Dog 5 AM Saint.

Style: American Amber Ale. 5 gallons/19 liters. OG 1,056/ (est.) FG 1,009, 37 IBU, 33 EBC, 5,9 % ABV.

5,35 kg (83 %) Extra Pale Maris Otter
450 g (7 %) CaraPils
230 g (3,5 %) Munich
320 g (5 %) Crystal 100
100 g (1,5 %) Roasted Barley

Mash with 17 liters of brewing liqueur (Ca 120, Mg 4, Na 10, SO4 260, Cl 12, HCO3 53) at 69 degrees C for 60 minutes.

Sparge with 21,3 liters of water at 73 degrees to collect approx. 31 liters of wort with a pre-boil gravity of 1,044.

Boil for 90 minutes and add:
20g Chinook (12,7 %) @ 20 min
20 g Amarillo (10,5 %) @ 5 min
15 g Centennial (10,3 %) @ 0 and WP for 30 minutes
15 g Chinook (12,7 %) @ 0 and WP for 30 minutes
15 g Amarillo (10,5 %) @ 0 and WP for 30 minutes

Chill the wort to 17 degrees and pitch with WLP001 or US-05. Ferment  at  18 degrees C.

After about a week, dry hop with
50 g Centennial (10,3 %)
50 g Chinook (12,7 %)
50 g Amarillo (10,5 %)
for 5 days.

Cold crash, add gelatin, keg and carbonate to 2,5 volumes.

I think it’ll be a crowd-pleasing Midsummer ale.

June 5, brewday

Time flies so the I ditched the old starter and made a new one out of WLP001 Cal Ale. A sure bet.

This was the first time I used my Monster Mill 3. I set it to 1,1 mm and it worked like a charm. 81% mash efficiency.

Lautered as usual in my 10 gallon Igloo. Collected 8,5 liters as first running out of 17 liters of strike water.

I decided to brew outdoors this time. As I have not yet built a proper brew stand, I swiftly constructed one out of Leca blocks in order to manage the downwards heat that the burner generates (wood is not a great foundation for a gas burner) and the wind. Stuff to consider for the future brew stand. A thought: I’m planning to build a greenhouse on this spot, as an extension of the garage, but maybe I should build a brewery instead?

Setting up the rest of the stuff was easy peasy. I have now learned to prime the pump properly (what a cool string of words!) and the only issue is how to place the chiller so that I can inspect the thermometer without having to lay down ion the ground.

Another issue is the low boil rate I get with this burner under the 50 liter pot. I need to recalculate the boil of rate, or insulate the pot, because i missed OG by 5 (51 instead of 56) and ended up with 6,5 liters of extra wort that I did not want to discard. So I filled a 5 liter plastic jerry can and pitched it with the only yeast I had at home (a bag of Mauribrew Weiss from 2014… call it an experiment, OK? If it’s drinkable I’ll name it Pink: a red wit.) and filled a 1,5 Coke PET bottle and put it in the freezer for my next yeast starter.


New stuff

A new ladle, long enough for a 10 gallon cooler:


A longer Bazooka screen with a sort of dip tube for that final gallon at the bottom of the brew kettle:


Replacement for the hydrometer and jar that I broke during the last brew session. And a backup for when I break that one.


My new house base malt:


Hope to be able to do some serious capping with this monster:


and some serious and precise grain milling with this one:


Batch #74 – A Cascade Pale Ale again

After Batch #73 crash landed on the floor of my garage shed, I made a firm fist in my jeans pocket, said something unmentionable, and went on to batch 74. It’s exactly like Batch #73 with one exception – I couldn’t find WLP001 on the weekend (and didn’t have time to make a new starter) so I substituted it with US-05. I could have just given up, but the rest of the weekends this spring will make brewing hard, and I really wanted something descent on keg for the beginning of summer.

The brew session went pretty much like the previous one. One positive change was that I had trouble shooted my non-puming pump (thanks to this great video from BrewHardware), opened it up and found some hop residue in it. I cleaned that out and it worked fine again. Lesson learned: rinsing the Chugger pump is not a sufficient cleaning method.

Another change was that I moved teh Bazooka screen from the MLT to the BK before the boil which enabled me to draw the beer from the BK through the pump and the plate chiller as intended. It did teach me though that I leave behind 4,7 liters of beer in the dead space of the BK. If I don’t want to compensate that with more grain, hops and water, I need to find another way to filter the hops that includes a dip tube I guess. There are false bottoms and such, intended for MLTs I think and I don’t know how they work in a boil kettle. The Bazooka works fine. With leaf hops that is. I fear that pellets will not work. So my strategy now is to use leaf in the boil and pellets in the fermenter. I have purchased a hop spider but for some reason I’m reluctant to try it… It doesn’t feel proper.



Batch #73 – Classic American Pale Ale

It’s time to brew for the summer which means no funny business and experimentation but the production of some solid crowd-pleasers. I’m planning a hoppy wheat beer, and amber ale, an IPA and this one: my take on Sierra Nevada’s classic Pale Ale.

Ken Grossman, founder of Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.

I made a successful batch more than a year ago which would have survived a blind test with SNPA days after packaging and that actually peaked after 6 months. For this batch I will consolidate the malt bill, go all-Cascade, and use proper Chico yeast. Tentative recipe for 5 gallons:

4,25 kg Extra Pale Maris Otter
0,53 kg Crystal 20L
0,27 kg Munich
0,11 kg Crystal 40L
0,10 kg Wheat

55 g Cascade 7,8% @ 22 min (24,6 IBU)
Protofloc @ 15 min
55 g Cascade 7,8% @ 5 min (10,2 IBU)
55 g Cascade 7,8% @ flame out and steep for 22 minutes (14,1 IBU)

WLP001 California Ale yeast

40 g Cascade 7,8% dry hop for 5 days


First step is to make a yeast starter. This brew session will be my first 6 gallon batch. I’m using my new 13 gallon/50 liter brew pot w/ gas burner for the first time, and one of my new 6 gallon PET carboys to the extent of its capacity. The goal is to fill a 5 gallon keg.

I follow the instructions for a yeast starter in White & Zainasheff’s Yeast (2010, p. 133ff) and according to BeerSmith I need to make a 1 liter starter with my vial of WLP001 from March 15. So, I add 100 g of DME and 1/16 teaspoon of yeast nutrient to 1000 ml of water, boil it for 15 minutes, chill to room temperature, transfer to sanitary vessel (E-flask), pitch the yeast and place it on the stir plate.


A few days later, the brew session went well but ended in disaster.

Even though the old Corona works fine I’m about to upgrade to a Monster Mill, mainly to gain better control of the granularity:

Even though I now have a 50 liter brewpot, the 20 liter one is still sufficient for heating the liqueur. I do it like Tasty McDole: batch sparge with two equal portions of water, in this case 2 x 18,5 liters. That way I can utilize the induction plate.
Silocon hoses are classy, but they bend when you run hot liquid though them and regular, and stiffer, PVC is is quite sufficient when drawing wort from the MLT.

Pics above:

  • The new 50 liter pot on the new burner, specified for indoors use. I’ll need some sort of heat shield in the bottom though.
  • My new employer was kind enough to give my an iPad, which now serves as my BrewSmith terminal.
  • Lots of Cascade…
  • My first actual flame out!

I’ve not yet figured out how to separate the hops from the hot beer before it goes into the pump and the plate chiller so this time I did a workaround and transfered the beer back to the MLT and used its Bazooka screen as a hop filter. It worked fine, but I need to get another Bazooka for the boil kettle, or perhaps one of those LauterHelixes, or perhaps modify a Blichmann HopStopper. Anyway, my Chugger Pump malfunctioned, this second time at use, so I gravity fed the plate chiller, which worked fine.

Time to pith the wuast, but not before I get a hold of that rotating magnet. 21 liter @ OG 1,053. On the mark. Since the surface of the beer was rather close to the opening of the carboy, I decided to fit it with a blowoff device.

I shouldn’t have done that. Or at least not placed on the same shelf as the carboy in the fridge, cause when I came back about an our later, this is what I found:


Damage control:

  • 6 gallons of beer and 7 hours of work wasted
  • about 3 gallons of beer on the floor
  • one CPU fan busted
  • one glass shelf busted.

I initiated a clean up operation and began investigating where I could find more Cascade hops on a weekend. It worked out, so then I began Batch #74.